friggin sweet guide! helpin the lowly's get out of the pits
Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride!” ― HunterThompson
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Great ideas in concept. I been Class A for a while now, won the first race I entered as Class A (Cosworth ug at about 200 points); Only got a few 3rds since. I did Raise too quickly and spent too many points in C and B (aside from Cosworth). It is nearly impossible to win points now, most Official races I enter now end up 6th in Mudpit (Only place I can hope to place in current situation). Mudpit does not show up much when I check for Official races. Seems only chance I have is to join some job with Racing points.
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Torn Racing can be a lot of fun. There are merits to be had, faction and player-run tournaments, new lap records, and even the semi-annual URT sponsored by Torn with a Bugatti Veyron and billions in prizes. But sometimes newer racers get stuck and can't seem to win a single racing point to improve their car or advance in class. We see a post along these lines every month or so in the racing forum, and I'm sure more people are silently suffering the same fate:
"I keep finishing 6th in every race. I have no points to upgrade my car because I crashed and lost my upgrades. Help!"
"I spent all my points on my previous car, then moved up a class, now I finish last and can't get more points. Racing sucks!"
So... what to do? That's what this thread is about. How to recover from having no racing points. This is not a comprehensive racing guide. There are already two of those - well-written and time-tested:
- Baldr wrote this one for the racing forum: TORN Racing FAQ - Baldr - I recommend you read this guide now, looking at both the companies where you can trade job points for racing points and the generally recommended path from class E to a fully upgraded class A car. The goal of my guide below is to get you back on Baldr's track, trying to get to a fully upgraded class A car, if you can do it by switching to one of the three companies, that is probably an easier path than the below.
- RD_ (now WhatTheFoxSay) posted this guide a long time ago in both the racing forum and tutorial & guide forum, it's still great information today: Upgrade guide (racing forum) or Racing Upgrade Guide by RD_ (T&G forum). This guide has some good general information but really goes in depth on the cars, upgrades and tracks. A must-read by the time you're in class B if you plan to race past the merits.
"Rogue, you're losing me! If I had read Baldr's guide first, I wouldn't have this problem... and we already noted I don't have points for RD_'s upgrade guide."
Sorry, back on topic - there are sixteen total tracks, we can group them into three basic types of tracks...the big key to getting "unstuck" is to understand the different tracks and the cars the go with them, then focus on the dirt tracks.
Long Tarmac (few sharp curves): Speedway, Withdrawal, Convict, Uptown Short Tarmac (lots of sharp curves or turns): Sewage, Meltdown, Commerce, Underdog, Vector, Industrial, Docks* Dirt (any track with dirt): Mudpit, Parkland, Two Islands, Hammerhead, Stone Park
*Note that Docks can go either way, in some classes the better cars are the long cars but for this list I'm calling it a short track.
I'm stuck in class E! No. You're not. You just need patience. Many racers get through class E spending no points on upgrades. If you're still in class E - go read Baldr's guide now and enjoy a smoother trip from class E to class A. That said, class E cars are relatively cheap and racing points are scarce early, so I would enlist three class E cars but spend no points on them - not even the one point Baldr recommends on the Strip Out upgrade. Each car below has base stats that should make spending points unnecessary, as each matches up well with a certain track type.
Recommended Cars - spend no points on any of them: - Renault Clio (Long Tarmac) - Vauxhall Corsa (Short Tarmac) - Fiat Punto (Dirt)
You'll have a small advantage from your car choice before the race even starts, so this should shorten your stay in class E - save those points and (did I mention this already?) read Baldr's FAQ!
I'm stuck in class D! Again, you really shouldn't get stuck in class D. But if you already spent all the points earned in class E on that class E car and can't seem to win another point with a class D car, try buying a BMW X5 and using it on the "Dirt" tracks and race the other two cars listed (no upgrades!) on the tarmac tracks.
Recommended cars - only spend a few points maybe 10-20 maximum on the Dirt track car: BMW X5 (Dirt - a Hummer H3 should also work but I prefer the BMW X5) Toyota MR2 (Long Tarmac) Volkswagen Beetle (Short Tarmac)
Once you hit C, you should have a few points saved and can follow Baldr's guide the rest of the way to A. I might recommend sticking with the dirt strategy and try to save more points in C though, since you thought you were behind in D already.
I'm Stuck in Class C! Okay, if you're in class C and don't have a class C car with any upgrades, this time you really are stuck. Once again, you need patience and to get the dirt track car to get yourself unstuck. Buy the Ford Focus - it's the only good dirt car in class C - use it on all the dirt tracks and just skip the tarmac tracks. So if you join an official race that has a tarmac track, leave the race. You have to wait 15 minutes to join another official race and hope for dirt. Lather rinse repeat...
Why does this work? Most racers go with a more exciting car like the Corvette that does well on the fast tracks but lousy on the dirt tracks. It may take a while, but you should be able to squeeze one or more third place finishes out of every 10 or so dirt races, spend a few points on the Focus to improve your podium finish rate, and grind your way to class B with points saved.
Recommended car, only spend points until you're getting third place sometimes, the goal is now to save as many as you can for class B Ford Focus (Dirt - this is the one car that will get you unstuck in class C)
Once you get back on track, follow Baldr's guide to class A, but buy the Cosworth as your B car if you can swing the price tag.
I'm Stuck in Class B! You're almost to class A, but somehow stuck in class B with no class B cars with any upgrades. Oddly, B is much easier than C for a price - for well over $10 million (about $16 million at the time I write this), the answer is the Sierra Cosworth - it's insanely good on dirt. Since a lot of racers won't buy the Cosworth due to the price tag, this means you will have the best dirt car for class B - and even with no upgrades it will sometimes get you points on the Dirt tracks (especially on Mudpit, where it remains the best car even once you reach class A - a second reason to recommend it).
You can't afford $16 million? Then I say try the Subaru Impreza at about $50K - but you'll probably see a much longer recovery curve to get yourself unstuck - more like the one I describe for class C where you get an occasional third place and face a long grind.
In either the Cosworth or less expensive alternates (Subaru Impreza or Mitsubishi Evo X), again only enter official dirt races. If you enter a race not on one of the five dirt tracks, leave the race - wait the 15 minutes - then try again to draw a dirt track.
Note - for the Sierra, be certain the upgrades you do buy will remain on the car in class A (that is, not get replaced by a higher upgrade) - there is a spreadsheet linked in Baldr's guide that has upgrades listed with class availability. When in doubt, go weight reduction, none of those get overwritten later.
Recommended cars, only spend points if you have a long streak with no third or better finishes, save every point you can for class A: Sierra Cosworth (All Dirt - the expensive but best choice to get unstuck here and remains useful in class A) Subaru Impreza STI (inexpensive Dirt alternate) Mitsubishi Evo X (mid-tier $1 million or so alternate)
When you get to class A - you have a choice to make. If you have a decent number of points saved (like 150+) then you are in okay shape to start upgrading a class A car. Probably a Honda NSX for Short Tarmac or a Lexus LFA for Long Tarmac, then use that car on tarmac and the B dirt car on dirt tracks, until you have one class A car fully upgraded. If you are still short on points and used the Cosworth in class B, then I would say start putting class A upgrades on the Cosworth - it will initially be useful on all five dirt tracks in Class A and eventually remain the top car on the Mudpit track (with 266 points, fully upgraded with class A upgrades - no safety!). So no matter what, you will always at least be competitive on Mudpit and not entirely stuck for a way to get racing points. And if you didn't use a Cosworth in B and didn't save more than 100 points for A, then you're in pretty bad shape still but should probably try to go with a class A car here rather than spend another point on a class B car that's not a Cosworth.
I'm Stuck in Class A! At this point, you are in trouble. If you are in class A with no upgraded class A cars and no points, then you're going to have to buy a Sierra Cosworth and race only on dirt tracks, with Mudpit being the one you're most likely to squeeze out some points on. If you get a tarmac track, leave the race, wait 15 minutes and join another official race to try to get dirt for your Cosworth. I would put all points in class A upgrades on the Cosworth, again because the big advantage you'll have on dirt tracks, at least early in class A, is that many racers will not have invested in the Cosworth yet, coupled with the fact that it will always be your best car on Mudpit so the racing points are not wasted.
If you're stuck in class A, you're in for a grind. No way around it, but the Cosworth and a lot of patience should get you going and hopefully you draw some Mudpit tracks in official races.
Initial track coverage in class A: Sierra Cosworth (Dirt - and if you are stuck, this is the car you want to get upgraded first with class A upgrades) Lexus LFA (Long Tarmac) Honda NSX (Short Tarmac)
Longer-term track coverage in class A: SIerra Cosworth (Mudpit) Honda NSX or Audi R8 (Dirt except Mudpit) Lexus LFA (Long Tarmac) Honda NSX (Short Tarmac)
If you get to this point with the four cars for good class A track coverage and are still racing, then you'll start specializing cars for specific tracks, I"m not covering that here (hint - RD_'s guide is a good place to look for more info). Just trying to make it clear why I'm recommending the Cosworth so definitively for both the class B and class A "unstuck yourself" dirt strategy. It will get you out of a tough spot in class B and likely even A, and remain useful long term so you'll always have a way to earn a few more points.
Anyway, this is my first attempt at a guide, it's longer than I thought, but I'd appreciate feedback - especially from any of you who end up trying to use it to get out of a racing point hole. I'll try to edit it until it's clear and effective for all stuck racers.
looks like i'm on track according to this guide for A class,but it's still tough for me to squeeze out points on dirt wt my fully upgraded cosworth on dirt tracks...i'm currently building a short tarmac nsx to help assist me but it's not yet ready to start winning races because i hv the little upgrades i need to put in to the car before i think i can start squeezing out points.But for the heavy upgrades(the one that costs a lot of rp's i've gotten most of them i'm just left wt some weight reduction ,suspension, aerodynamics ,engine ,braking and transmission.
my nsx atm on typing this.
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